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Derek Mossman Knapp
Derek Mossman Knapp
Tuesday, 25 September 2018 / Published in Press / Prensa

The Buyer: Anita Jackson: time to put premium Chile on on-trade mapThe Buyer:

The spotlight falls on Chile this week with the Mercado Chileno tasting at London’s Truman Brewery on September 13. It promises to be a unique opportunity for UK buyers to see first hand the new styles of wine being made in different regions of the country. Wines that Anita Jackson, the UK head of Wines of Chile, believes are ideally placed to shake up and add real excitement to any premium wine list

Who better to give you a guided tour around what to expect at today’s Wines of Chile tasting than the head of its UK office, Anita Jackson, who marks your card on what to expect and where to go if your time is tight.

The world is opening up to premium Chilean wine

How was 2018 gone so far in terms of Chilean sales in the UK? 

Chile sales in the UK have remained positive during 2018, in fact the exports stats are in growth by volume and value. Chile has 9% market share in the UK, sustaining its positive position for over four years. The UK is the third largest export market for Chile.

Which channels are seeing the most growth? 

The channel with the most growth is the off-trade, which has remained in positive growth for at least three years now. 

What steps and developments have you seen in the premium on-trade for Chilean wines this year and over the last 18 months? 

It’s a slow process with the on-trade. We have to break the mindset in the on-trade that Chile is only good for great value house wine and to look beyond to the more premium offerings. It’s gradually happening, especially where there is more awareness from sommeliers of the regions, such as Leyda and Limarí and the amazing quality from these regions that do outperform more traditional regions that get regularly listed.

What are the key messages you want to get across to sommeliers and buyers about Chilean wine?

That Chile should be the go to country for premium wines, stylistically it has everything for everyone, elegant Chardonnay, Syrah/Shiraz that compete on the world stage, Sauvignon Blanc with personality that reflects the regions it comes from. And what’s more Chile is good business’ bottom line and margins.

Is the regionality route the right way to go or a case of winemakers telling their own stories? 

Definitely, people want to hear about provenance. The regions in Chile are all distinctive in their style and the wines that they produce. Providing a story is a strong way for sommeliers to sell the wines.

Any particular developments that have happened in Chile that you would like to tell buyers about? 

Derek Mossman of the Garage Wine Co is one of the producers leading the way in Maule

The buzz in Chile at the moment is coming from the south and varieties such as Pais, Cinsault, Carignan and Muscat from Itata and Maule. Chile has also defined it’s regions from east to west with the DO’s Costa (coastal), Entre Cordilleras (in between the mountain ranges) and Andes planted in the Andes foothills. Also with plantings further south into the Lake district and further north into the Atacama region, things aren’t standing still.

What styles of Chilean wine do you think are ideal for the premium on-trade?

Mainly the wines mentioned above, such as Syrah, Chardonnay, Carignan  and Sauvignon Blanc. Pinot Noir also seems to get better every year.

And the price points?

Retail price points £10 – £15, that convert to a good price in a restaurant of £15 – £40.

Tell us about today’s  Wines of Chile tasting in London. What can buyers expect? 

We have a fantastic range of wineries on tasting with wines that cover all the regions, the new 2018 vintage is looking good so look out for these wines. We also have an Artisan area with a range of wines from boutique wineries and some quirky styles to try. Our themed tables reflect the terroirs of Chile, a range of wines that the wineries consider their top wines, and a range of award winning wines. If you come along in the evening we have a quiz to challenge what style of Cabernet Sauvignon you like.

Chilean producer JA Jofre will be taking part in the Chilean tasting for the first time

There are also some new names to look out for and producers seeking UK representation. They are in the Artisan area and also two have taken their own tables, JA Jofré and La Ronciere. Both have some great wines that really express altitude, quirky blends and have good expressions of Semillon.

If your time was short what would be the key things you would recommend buyers doing at the tasting?

Check out the new 2018 vintage and particularly look for examples of Pais and Cinsault that show Chile’s light fresh drinking styles. Also take a look at the Rieslings being made in the South and make time to visit the Artisan area.

  • The Wines of Chile takes place on September 25 at OXO2, Level 2, OXO Tower Wharf, Bargehouse Street, Southbank, SE1 9PH between 10am and 5.30pm. Trade visitors can register on the day. You can download the tasting catalogue here.  
Tagged under: anita jackson, the buyer

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Garage Wine Co
Winery: Camino San Antonio Caliboro KM 5.8 San Javier 3660000
Región del Maule, Chile

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  • Caliboro

About Garage Wine Co.

Garage Wine began quite literally in Pilar and Derek’s Garage. After half a dozen vintages making wine for an informal market of family and friends, it began exporting to UK & Denmark in 2006

The Parcels

GWCo makes wines from a series of individual parcels, small lots / bottlings of 8 -22 barrels that include a series of dry-farmed field-blends of Carignan, Garnacha, Monastrell, País, Cinsault and Cab Franc grown on pre-phylloxera rootstock with small farmers in the Maule and Itata. Each wine is from a 1-2 hectare parcel in a different place: Bagual, Caliboro, Coelemu, Guarilihue, Loncomilla, Portezuelo, Puico, Ranquil, Sauzal, Truquilemu…

Over the years working in the community we have raised a veritable posse of vineyard hands whose skills are working the vineyards the old way / the traditional way— originario. We cultivate vineyards with small vigneron partners who work with horse and plough as his family has done for generations. Some of the parcels, where the next generation moved to the city, we have opted to rent long-term creating more work for the local hands who do want to stay on the farm.

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The vineyards are on the old Coastal Range of mountains closer to the Pacific — Chile’s other mountains. These are older and cooled more slowly so they have granitic soils, many with intrusions and cracks for roots to get deep down into. When GWCo. speaks of the provenance of our wines however we mean more than just the geology of the terroir. This is a good start, but we are convinced the farming practices that have evolved over generations have as much to do with the wines’ personalities as the soils. The regeneration of the vineyards long since neglected depends upon this farming.

GWCo. also makes an old-vine Cab Franc (old bush head vines) and a Cab Sauv blend in the Maule as well as two Cabs mountain-grown in the Maipo where the firm began in 2003.

All the wines are made by hand with native yeasts in small tanks, punched down manually and pressed out in a small basket press. GWCo is still very much a DIY operation and we still tow much of the crop back to the winery in trailers behind trusty pickup trucks 2,ooo kilos at a time.

Single Ferment Series Wines

Pais & Cinsault in the Secano Interior, the cradle of the original Chilean viticulture, have been forever the victim of commodity pricing. When GWCo saw its Carignan growers being paid paltry sums for their other fruit we began acquiring small bits from various farmers to experiment. From the beginning, we paid bonafide prices that would allow for the traditional field works to cultivate the soil properly to continue into the future. Commercial bottlings of “Single Ferments” began with serendipity when we simply could not resist not one but three small bits of Cinsault. And then promptly plain ran out of tanks to ferment them in. With nowhere to put all three, we simply stacked the second bit of newly harvested fruit on top of the first already fermenting—and then the third on top of both, creating one single fermentation from the fruit of three farms. We adopted the same technique with Pais and subsequently named both wines: Single Ferment Series.

The Nitty Gritty

In these times it is important to stand for what you believe in, and more importantly to build the kind of business you believe in. At Garage Wine Co. we revive old vineyards in marginalized Chilean communities to make coveted wines. We’ve positioned these wines in a dozen established fine wine markets around the world and we grow. The wines are not made to be expensive per se, but they are found on the higher shelves– they need to command a price that allows for proper farming. What we have discovered is that the long-term practices of regenerative farming not only make for better fruit and thus more flavourful wine, but that such a business can become a force for financial, community and environmental good.

The Baby and the Bathwater  

As South American wine exports have boomed over the last quarter-century, it has grown increasingly difficult for small farmers to sell their old-vine grapes at a proper price – a price that can consistently sustain family and community. Mainstream buyers want more for less and they would have the growers modernise. The modern wine business calls for spraying instead of cultivating, scaling instead of focusing, and above all: reducing the cost of labour. But with the old vineyards, the labour is precisely where one finds the wisdom of farming passed down through the ages. Throwing that away would be throwing the baby out with the bathwater.

Regenerative Farming

Farming in the Secano Interior, the Maule and Itata valleys of Southern Chile, has been a way of life since Colonial times. Not just vineyards, but mixed farming of heritage seed wheat, free-range livestock and local market produce. Small-scale farms use dry-farming methods: turning over the earth to capture scarce seasonal rainwater, and nutrients from the clever use of seasonal cover crops that in turn help sequester carbon from the air, and the use of horses to get into rows where tractors can’t reach.

This is where GWCo. works; too far from the comfort zone of those in the mainstream. These vineyards were neglected and relegated to bulk wine for decades because the booming market wanted branded varietals that didn’t command a price to support the work.

For more than a decade GWCo. has worked these old vines, there has been a marked improvement both in vineyard health and quality of the fruit produced.

The marrying of the fieldcraft of these small-scale farmers with the lens of modern science and GWCo’s mindful winemaking took a decade, but the marriage has proven successful not just for GWCo, but also for the farmers, our suppliers and customers alike. Over the past few years, we have begun to rent and in some cases acquire the property underneath the old vines. Today one-third of our production is worked our way with our own people.

Necessity was the mother of sustainability

Sustainability for us was never about seals and certifications. We became sustainable just trying to survive being small in an industry geared to the big. Vintage after vintage we made our way through a series of necessary work-arounds, finding a way forward, that only later would be seen to be sustainable.

Recycled bottles – Because our production runs were small we were challenged when it came to dry-goods. When bottle makers refused to deliver to us, we found a local bottle recycler who became a trusted partner. This small business employs workers in a rural part of the country where stable and safe work is hard to find. What we learned is that when bottles are manufactured they have a limited shelf-life on the factory patio—a best before date if you will. Today we buy these bottles and wash them before use. This is glass that would otherwise have been smashed and melted and remade—without ever having been used. What is the carbon footprint of a bottle manufactured twice to be used once?

Labels & Packaging— We learned to paint / silk-screen bottles because our bottlings were so small that the label printers did not want to work with us. The industry was geared to long print runs and said there was no money in printing 1200 labels. So we built a custom machine and found experienced hands with silk-screening. Luis, our bottle painter, has been painting bottles for us for 11 years now. (Chile’s first hotel built entirely of recycled materials: The WineBox, has adapted out bottles for their lamps today.)

What’s with the wax? - Regular capsules were also sold with a minimum far larger than our needs, so we found a school supply firm that would make us food-safe wax for seals from crayon wax.

All of these workarounds-- bothers slash hassles at the time, led to a positive and durable differentiation in packaging. We have continued to work with earth-friendly inks for silk screening and recycled materials for cases.

Fermentation tanks: Unable to buy new tanks— designed to make mainstream wines, large, expensive and inflexible in their design, we took the leftover cuttings and scraps of a large stainless manufacturer and pieced together Lagars (traditional word for open tanks). We did it for far less money and the upcycling created opportunities for local welding shops.

Fruit: Years ago we bought from mainstream growers. When we made a crackerjack wine, the grower would use the prestige with critics to sell our fruit to someone bigger / better known leaving us without said fruit and without continuity in our portfolio. After two or three experiences such as this, frustrated, we went South to the Secano to work with growers unknown, unpolished, and disconnected from the mainstream. Working closely with small growers far from the beaten path, we found diamonds in the rough. When the polishing was done we had forged a bond with the growers—partnerships that we have continued to build upon with others in the neighbourhood.

Diverse leadership

Let’s face it, the wine business can be conservative, clubby and patriarchic. Having a female lead our work helps us work with our growers and suppliers on a different footing. We also like to mix scientists with field hands. Instead of contracting the cheapest bused-in labour, we keep it local where there are more experienced hands. Mercenary piecework doesn’t work — proper sourcing does. It’s a mouthful, but in a phrase: the difference created by the discretionary effort released when you work in good faith with local farmhands is so much more than the savings that might be achieved from cost-cutting, that there’s no comparing the two. We have never looked back.

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