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Derek Mossman Knapp
Derek Mossman Knapp
Tuesday, 13 August 2024 / Published in Editorial

Rosé, Malbec, and the next big thing 

Today we begin to launch a Malbec— and a part of me shudders. For years we have been told countless times that no need to include Old Vine Pale (our Rosé) because Rosé is now passé and no one wants it: no one wants to taste it, buy it, stock it, or waste time on it.

And Old Vine Pale Rosé has grown 10 + % for the last decade. The same decade Rosé-all-day big-thing-pink blew up, blew out and blew back.

It has been fun, painstakingly countering insisting that that ours is not a Rosé. ¨It is a Winter Rose¨ ¨It´s a chilled red…¨ and my personal favorite and Pilar´s invention: ¨it´s the first glass of a long lunch.¨ In point of fact we sold it for years and years as simply Old Vine Pale to avoid the moniker: Rosé in hopes of not arousing suspicion.

Next Big Thing Thinking

As you may have gathered, Old Vine Pale was not an attempt to cash in on the next big thing. It was what to do with eight rows of Cariñena with greater yields, rows that would simply not work in the reds we were developing in Truqui.

Trying to cash in on the next big thing in wine is like flying a flat kite behind a water ski boat. The moment you are airborne the apparatus begins to yo-yo madly from side to side. Unless you commit to lean counter intuitively towards the wrong side you are never able to stabilize the contraption— and the water hurts when you are all strapped in.

Malbec

For years we have had old vine bush-head Malbec and we have been happy to blend it into our Maule Cabernet. In 2022 we kept the shoots shorter so they did not fall and expose the fruit to the sun and whammy, we had a proper, read `larger´, crop and delicious fruit. After two winters in barrel we loved the resulting wine, and we decided to bottle a Malbec. It has spent a third Winter in bottle it is time to begin to think about a name to introduce the wine to society.

For those of you who attend Tiny Tasting today: you will get the first taste.

What will the reaction be outside Chile? Our next big thing? Please no. We have never chased a big thing. I doubt we ever will. So far: ¨Uffff another label Derek? Perhaps let’s look at it next year? Malbec came and went a few years ago. Hard to sell Malbec these days.¨

For those who dare to taste the wine first I think the path is clear. She is a beauty and just beginning life.

Fact for the freakies: Malbec first came to South America to San Rosendo [See Jancis Robinson if you do not believe me link: https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/how-malbec-got-to-argentina-via-chile How far from San Rosendo to our vineyard? About 100 miles and about 200 years. So we shan´t be in any hurry.

Note: For those in Chile, who can not make the tasting today, we shall put a few cases together including the Malbec in question, but after this week when it is gone, then we shall roll-out slowly without hurry without need nor mention of any big thing thinking.

Cheers,

Derek

Rosé, Malbec, y la próxima gran cosa

Hoy empezamos a lanzar un Malbec, y una parte de mí se estremece. Durante años nos han dicho innumerables veces que no hacía falta incluir Old Vine Pale (nuestro Rosé) porque el Rosé ya es passé y nadie lo quiere: nadie quiere probarlo, comprarlo, almacenarlo ni perder el tiempo con él.

Y Old Vine Pale Rosé ha crecido un 10 + % durante la última década. La misma década en la que el rosado, la gran cosa de todos los días, ha estallado, se ha apagado y ha vuelto a estallar.

Ha sido divertido, meticulosamente contrarrestar insistiendo en que la nuestra no es una Rosé.
¨Es un Rosado de Invierno¨ ¨Es un tinto frío…¨ y mi favorito personal e invención de Pilar: ¨es la primera copa de un largo almuerzo.¨

De hecho, lo vendimos durante años como Old Vine Pale para evitar el apodo: Rosé con la esperanza de no levantar sospechas.

La próxima gran idea

Como habrán deducido, Old Vine Pale no era un intento de sacar provecho de la próxima gran novedad. Era qué hacer con ocho hileras de Cariñena con mayores rendimientos, hileras que simplemente no funcionarían en los tintos que estábamos desarrollando en Truqui.

Tratar de sacar provecho de la próxima gran cosa en el vino es como volar una cometa plana detrás de un barco de esquí acuático.

En el momento en que estás en el aire, el aparato empieza a moverse como un yoyó de un lado a otro. A menos que te comprometas a inclinarte de forma contraintuitiva hacia el lado equivocado, nunca serás capaz de estabilizar el artilugio, y el agua duele cuando estás atado.

Malbec

Durante años hemos tenido Malbec de viñas viejas y hemos estado encantados de mezclarlo con nuestro Cabernet del Maule. En 2022 mantuvimos los sarmientos más cortos para que no se cayeran y expusieran la fruta al sol y, zas, tuvimos una cosecha adecuada, léase “más grande”, y una fruta deliciosa. Tras dos inviernos en barrica nos encantó el vino resultante, y decidimos embotellar un Malbec. Ha pasado un tercer invierno en botella y es hora de empezar a pensar en un nombre para presentar el vino en sociedad.

Para los que asistan hoy al Tiny Tasting: tendrán la primera cata.

¿Cuál será la reacción fuera de Chile? ¿Nuestra próxima gran cosa? Por favor, no. Nunca hemos perseguido algo grande. Dudo que alguna vez lo hagamos. Hasta ahora: ¨¿Uffff otro etiqueta Derek!? ¿Quizás lo veamos el año que viene? Malbec vino y se fue hace unos años. Es difícil vender Malbec hoy en día.¨

Para aquellos que se atreven a probar el vino primero creo que el camino está claro. Es una belleza y recién empieza la vida.

Dato para los freakies: El Malbec llegó por primera vez a Sudamérica a San Rosendo [Vean a Jancis Robinson si no me creen link: https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/how-malbec-got-to-argentina-via-chile ¿Qué tan lejos de San Rosendo al campo nuestro? Unos 100 millas y unos 200 años. Así que no vamos estar con estar con ningúna prisa.

Nota: Para aquellos en Chile, que no pueden hacer la degustación de hoy, vamos a armar un par de cajas mixtas, incluyendo el Malbec en cuestión, pero después de esta semana, cuando se ha ido, entonces vamos a rodar lentamente sin prisa sin necesidad ni mención de cualquier próxima gran cosa.

Salud,

Derek

Tagged under: malbec

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Garage Wine Co
Winery: Camino San Antonio Caliboro KM 5.8 San Javier 3660000
Región del Maule, Chile

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About Garage Wine Co.

Garage Wine began quite literally in Pilar and Derek’s Garage. After half a dozen vintages making wine for an informal market of family and friends, it began exporting to UK & Denmark in 2006

The Parcels

GWCo makes wines from a series of individual parcels, small lots / bottlings of 8 -22 barrels that include a series of dry-farmed field-blends of Carignan, Garnacha, Monastrell, País, Cinsault and Cab Franc grown on pre-phylloxera rootstock with small farmers in the Maule and Itata. Each wine is from a 1-2 hectare parcel in a different place: Bagual, Caliboro, Coelemu, Guarilihue, Loncomilla, Portezuelo, Puico, Ranquil, Sauzal, Truquilemu…

Over the years working in the community we have raised a veritable posse of vineyard hands whose skills are working the vineyards the old way / the traditional way— originario. We cultivate vineyards with small vigneron partners who work with horse and plough as his family has done for generations. Some of the parcels, where the next generation moved to the city, we have opted to rent long-term creating more work for the local hands who do want to stay on the farm.

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The vineyards are on the old Coastal Range of mountains closer to the Pacific — Chile’s other mountains. These are older and cooled more slowly so they have granitic soils, many with intrusions and cracks for roots to get deep down into. When GWCo. speaks of the provenance of our wines however we mean more than just the geology of the terroir. This is a good start, but we are convinced the farming practices that have evolved over generations have as much to do with the wines’ personalities as the soils. The regeneration of the vineyards long since neglected depends upon this farming.

GWCo. also makes an old-vine Cab Franc (old bush head vines) and a Cab Sauv blend in the Maule as well as two Cabs mountain-grown in the Maipo where the firm began in 2003.

All the wines are made by hand with native yeasts in small tanks, punched down manually and pressed out in a small basket press. GWCo is still very much a DIY operation and we still tow much of the crop back to the winery in trailers behind trusty pickup trucks 2,ooo kilos at a time.

Single Ferment Series Wines

Pais & Cinsault in the Secano Interior, the cradle of the original Chilean viticulture, have been forever the victim of commodity pricing. When GWCo saw its Carignan growers being paid paltry sums for their other fruit we began acquiring small bits from various farmers to experiment. From the beginning, we paid bonafide prices that would allow for the traditional field works to cultivate the soil properly to continue into the future. Commercial bottlings of “Single Ferments” began with serendipity when we simply could not resist not one but three small bits of Cinsault. And then promptly plain ran out of tanks to ferment them in. With nowhere to put all three, we simply stacked the second bit of newly harvested fruit on top of the first already fermenting—and then the third on top of both, creating one single fermentation from the fruit of three farms. We adopted the same technique with Pais and subsequently named both wines: Single Ferment Series.

The Nitty Gritty

In these times it is important to stand for what you believe in, and more importantly to build the kind of business you believe in. At Garage Wine Co. we revive old vineyards in marginalized Chilean communities to make coveted wines. We’ve positioned these wines in a dozen established fine wine markets around the world and we grow. The wines are not made to be expensive per se, but they are found on the higher shelves– they need to command a price that allows for proper farming. What we have discovered is that the long-term practices of regenerative farming not only make for better fruit and thus more flavourful wine, but that such a business can become a force for financial, community and environmental good.

The Baby and the Bathwater  

As South American wine exports have boomed over the last quarter-century, it has grown increasingly difficult for small farmers to sell their old-vine grapes at a proper price – a price that can consistently sustain family and community. Mainstream buyers want more for less and they would have the growers modernise. The modern wine business calls for spraying instead of cultivating, scaling instead of focusing, and above all: reducing the cost of labour. But with the old vineyards, the labour is precisely where one finds the wisdom of farming passed down through the ages. Throwing that away would be throwing the baby out with the bathwater.

Regenerative Farming

Farming in the Secano Interior, the Maule and Itata valleys of Southern Chile, has been a way of life since Colonial times. Not just vineyards, but mixed farming of heritage seed wheat, free-range livestock and local market produce. Small-scale farms use dry-farming methods: turning over the earth to capture scarce seasonal rainwater, and nutrients from the clever use of seasonal cover crops that in turn help sequester carbon from the air, and the use of horses to get into rows where tractors can’t reach.

This is where GWCo. works; too far from the comfort zone of those in the mainstream. These vineyards were neglected and relegated to bulk wine for decades because the booming market wanted branded varietals that didn’t command a price to support the work.

For more than a decade GWCo. has worked these old vines, there has been a marked improvement both in vineyard health and quality of the fruit produced.

The marrying of the fieldcraft of these small-scale farmers with the lens of modern science and GWCo’s mindful winemaking took a decade, but the marriage has proven successful not just for GWCo, but also for the farmers, our suppliers and customers alike. Over the past few years, we have begun to rent and in some cases acquire the property underneath the old vines. Today one-third of our production is worked our way with our own people.

Necessity was the mother of sustainability

Sustainability for us was never about seals and certifications. We became sustainable just trying to survive being small in an industry geared to the big. Vintage after vintage we made our way through a series of necessary work-arounds, finding a way forward, that only later would be seen to be sustainable.

Recycled bottles – Because our production runs were small we were challenged when it came to dry-goods. When bottle makers refused to deliver to us, we found a local bottle recycler who became a trusted partner. This small business employs workers in a rural part of the country where stable and safe work is hard to find. What we learned is that when bottles are manufactured they have a limited shelf-life on the factory patio—a best before date if you will. Today we buy these bottles and wash them before use. This is glass that would otherwise have been smashed and melted and remade—without ever having been used. What is the carbon footprint of a bottle manufactured twice to be used once?

Labels & Packaging— We learned to paint / silk-screen bottles because our bottlings were so small that the label printers did not want to work with us. The industry was geared to long print runs and said there was no money in printing 1200 labels. So we built a custom machine and found experienced hands with silk-screening. Luis, our bottle painter, has been painting bottles for us for 11 years now. (Chile’s first hotel built entirely of recycled materials: The WineBox, has adapted out bottles for their lamps today.)

What’s with the wax? - Regular capsules were also sold with a minimum far larger than our needs, so we found a school supply firm that would make us food-safe wax for seals from crayon wax.

All of these workarounds-- bothers slash hassles at the time, led to a positive and durable differentiation in packaging. We have continued to work with earth-friendly inks for silk screening and recycled materials for cases.

Fermentation tanks: Unable to buy new tanks— designed to make mainstream wines, large, expensive and inflexible in their design, we took the leftover cuttings and scraps of a large stainless manufacturer and pieced together Lagars (traditional word for open tanks). We did it for far less money and the upcycling created opportunities for local welding shops.

Fruit: Years ago we bought from mainstream growers. When we made a crackerjack wine, the grower would use the prestige with critics to sell our fruit to someone bigger / better known leaving us without said fruit and without continuity in our portfolio. After two or three experiences such as this, frustrated, we went South to the Secano to work with growers unknown, unpolished, and disconnected from the mainstream. Working closely with small growers far from the beaten path, we found diamonds in the rough. When the polishing was done we had forged a bond with the growers—partnerships that we have continued to build upon with others in the neighbourhood.

Diverse leadership

Let’s face it, the wine business can be conservative, clubby and patriarchic. Having a female lead our work helps us work with our growers and suppliers on a different footing. We also like to mix scientists with field hands. Instead of contracting the cheapest bused-in labour, we keep it local where there are more experienced hands. Mercenary piecework doesn’t work — proper sourcing does. It’s a mouthful, but in a phrase: the difference created by the discretionary effort released when you work in good faith with local farmhands is so much more than the savings that might be achieved from cost-cutting, that there’s no comparing the two. We have never looked back.

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